The inspiration for Fendi’s AW17 is unexpected. It was EastEnders’ Pat Butcher whose face splattered the mood boards, and her emblematic East End matriarch style inspired many silhouettes. Tacky and almost-vulgar (but still totally fab) felt leopard-print coats and fur inserted onto outerwear collars and sleeves were particularly Pat Butcher-eqsue, and elsewhere, full fur pieces with slogan side panels and pastel and primary colour tracksuits under layered check overcoats.
With plenty of branding, it was clear that Fendi were spreading a message this season. With “Trust Fendi” printed on one shirt, and the Fendi marque spread over slides, rectangular check shearling tote tags, headbands, beanies and even neck pillows, there was no mistaking that Fendi were capitalising on the cult of the name. Not just satisfied with just their brand name though, Fendi printed thought-provoking (quite literally) words, including “Think” on the ankle straps of neoprene loafers and “Try” on a folding camp chair.
Silvia Venturini Fendi’s gaze was placed firmly on 80s and 90s sportswear and Buffalo, transpiring through the pastel tracksuits and her blend of sportswear and pre-sportswear. Perhaps it was her return to the everyday – “I was thinking about normality, and normal things,” Fendi designer said a few hours before the show – that triggered a move towards a more universally appealing aesthetic.