The designer spills the deets on the latest collection.
Experimentation was the name of the game for Krizia’s SS18 collection. Wowing the crowd at Milan Fashion Week, the line-up marked the second runway show for the Italian brand’s young designer, Antonio D’Anna, and he did not disappoint.
Founded by the late Mariuccia Mandelli back in 1954, Krizia was once one of the pillars of Milan fashion, ruling the game in the 80s and introducing the world to hot pants (yes, that’s right, hot pants). However, it’s safe to say that they faded slightly from fashion’s front row view in the last decade before being purchased by fashion entrepreneur Zhu Chongyun in 2014, who aimed to revive the brand by bringing to the forefront a focus on elegance and experimentation.
Enlisting the help of D’Anna, the designer is a welcome breath of fresh air for the heritage label. Resurrecting and modernising the famous animal prints alongside Mandelli’s signature pleats, the SS18 collection is an exciting look at how the young designer is going to bring the brand back into the spotlight where it belongs.
Catching up with D’Anna behind the scenes at Milan Fashion Week, we sat down to find out all about the collection.
What were the main inspirations for the SS18 collection?
Krizia has always focused on experimentation. We have been working on this concept for every new creation. We started from the iconic elements of the brand and then we reinterpreted them in an experimental way: animals are now located in unexpected positions of the garments and made by various materials or overwrapped with plastic materials. Regarding the plissé, while maintaining the architectural modelling shapes, it has been turned into a more relaxed attitude.
What is the design process like when creating a collection of this size?
Our creative journey starts on several fronts. While on the one hand there is a maniacal dedication to the material, starting from the study of the thread, on the other hand there is the modelling process that leads to the creation of new lines of fit. All these elements are filtered through a continuous dialogue with the surrounding environment, from the people who have worked for Krizia in the past to observing small but significant details still in her historical home. Everything becomes a testimony of the unique story from which I start the creative process. This is how a Plexiglas bracelet, found in a drawer, become the starting point of some pieces of the new collection, giving the fabric base with a new three-dimensionality.
How would you say the collection compares to previous ones?
The SS 2018 is a more complete, structured, self-confident and more aware collection. Over time, the relationship with Mrs. Zhu, Creative Director of Krizia, has also intensified and allowed the collection to develop further.
What are your favourite pieces from the collection?
My favourite piece is the hand-made white paillettes sweater worn with the plisset trousers and the transparent plexi bracelets. But I am also fond of the total in yellow look with the over-embroidered inlaid sweater and the silk skirt with animal print. And I couldn’t forget the jersey suit with the optical inlay and the play of transparencies game.
The collection is very elegant. How would you describe the “Krizia Girl”?
A Krizia-girl is a strong and secure woman but at the same time relaxed. A cosmopolitan woman who knows how to match different styles.
The colours in the collection are quite varied, from bright pastels, to black and burgundy, how did you ensure that all the looks were cohesive without compromising the colour palette?
Mrs Zhu and I focus our attention to the right choice of the perfect colour tone. We don’t use to leave anything to chance. For this reason, despite being decisive and diverse colours, they find their own harmony. It has been possible also thanks to the black and white colours, that returns to be a distinctive element of the house.
The jewellery and sunglasses from the collection are really striking, how important do you feel accessories are to a look?
The jewel is back to be one of the Krizia’s fundamental topic. As in the past, they come back to mark and characterize the look and in some cases become true protagonists of the same.
The prints used are also very eye-catching, how do you go about using motifs as bold as the animals in the first few looks, while keeping the looks elegant?
Even though the choice of an animal is a strong subject, the elegance is due to the materials and the unusual placements. In some case the animals are deliberately cut.
The beauty looks on the runway were very minimal, what inspired this?
The decision to opt for a lighter but also elegant make up is supposed to emphasize the aesthetics of a self-confident and relaxed woman.
Looking ahead, what do you think Krizia’s next collection will be like?