For AW25, Dsquared2 turned 30 years old, and creative director brother-duo Dean and Dan Caten certainly did not shy away from the occasion. From its sleazy nightclub-inspired setting, to the star-studded line up who stunned in their finest Dsquared2 garms, one thing remains certain: the Dsquared2 squad know how to throw a good party.
It’s not often you can get all the supers under one roof together, so when a designer is able to enlist the troops of the model world – and they all come running – you know it’s going to be a good ‘un. This was by no means any different for Dean and Dan Caten of Dsquared2, the twin brothers practically shut down Milan fashion week before it had properly kicked off, setting the tone with a celebratory nightclub-style runway in honour of the Canadian-born label’s 30th anniversary.
Behind a brick-laden backdrop, mimicking the grit of New York’s industrial apartment complexes, dimly lit windows and backstage doors sat in-between graffiti that had been sprayed amidst the brick, leaving one particularly resonant graphic centre stage, reading: Dsquared bros co. And then the Dsquared army rolled in: Taxis, Cadillacs, Jeeps, you name it, the posse travel in style. The night began with an army truck parking up centre stage, only to reveal rap’s woman-of-the-moment, Doechii, who emerged out of her whip, drenched in a Canadian get-up. A graphic tee printed in the fitting Iconique slogan cinched itself into a khaki corset, which teamed with a pair of itty-bitty-booty shorts (not to mention the wad of cash she waved in her hand and later threw on the floor – our personal favourite accessory). The rapper then sprinted down the catwalk – in what looked like 5-inch stilettos, FYI – as a disco remix of her hit Nissan Altima blared through speakers, to which she then gave her finest runway strut.
Coined Obsessed2, the collection paid homage to every Dsquared2 staple imaginable: models were swathed in distressed denims, leather, sparkling fringes, cowboy hats and jumbo-sized yeti hats alike, leather and fur (a must-have), casual athleisure colliding with glitzy bourgeois outerwear, belts stacked upon belts, stacked upon belts, oh, and did we mention leather? Another fan-favourite – the Skate Moss heels – made an appearance, the heels were recently reprised after 14 years of laying low, and what a time to bring them back. Each model that pulled up then mingled with the ever-growing crowd, joining the party, and if there’s ever a party that you fashion-heads would want to attend, it would be this one. We had supers Alex Consani, Naomi Campbell, Irina Shayk, Alton Mason, and Tyson Beckford, then there was US rapper NLE chopper, and to top it off, socialites Colin Jones and Amelia Gray (who stunned in a Cher-inspired bedazzled jumpsuit).
Despite the celebrations, the Caten brothers didn’t let the limelight get to their heads, as they enlisted the help of a cluster of collaborators, to re-visit the Dsquared2 archives, and put their own spin on a classic. Amongst them was Magliano, Vaquera (arguably the brooding, emo younger sister of Dsquared2), and Julie Pelipas’s upcycled fashion line Bettter. The culmination of the collection, no less, lay in the hands – or better yet, handcuffs – of Brigitte Nielsen, as the Danish actress posed as a police officer, and bound both Dean and Dan to a pair, before they ‘broke free’ and took their final bows. An electrifying night concluded as Doechii took to the stage to perform her single Alter Ego, bringing out JT to perform with her, and ring in a successful night.
Dedicating the collection to long-time collaborator Julie Enfield, the Canadian model who became a pivotal muse for the brothers whilst on their journey to the Dsquared2 we know and love today. Underneath the roller-skating, BDSM aficionados, handcuffs, übermodels and dancing, lies a labour of love from Dean and Dan Caten, to the people, friends, and contributors who have helped cultivate the beautiful legacy they’re celebrating today.
Words – Freya Goodchild-Bridge
