The 2025 Met Gala was nothing short of legendary — but you knew that already. The real question is: did talents, stylists, and designers truly rise to the occasion when it came to honouring the legacy of Black dandyism on fashion’s grandest stage? Writer Rose Ssemakula investigates.
Another year, another Met Gala in the books. Last night’s red carpet saw some of fashion and culture’s biggest names ascend the iconic steps in looks adhering to this year’s dress code, Tailored For You — a direct extension of the exhibition theme, Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.
Heavily inspired by guest curator Monica L. Miller’s seminal book Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity, this marks the first time a Met theme has centred Black style — a moment made even more resonant given the current political climate in the US, with Trump’s return to office signalling uncertainty for many African Americans. Guests were encouraged to celebrate the Black contribution to fashion, and how style has long served as a tool to convey identity and challenge oppression.
But, how well did guests actually do? Let’s dive into how some of fashion’s finest interpreted the theme.
Teyana Taylor was one the first to arrive last night and truly set the bar. An outfit by black designer Ruth E Carter and Marc Jacobs screamed black power, the durag and stacks of silver chains obvious cultural signifiers. The oxblood red seen throughout fit well with Taylor’s bold demeanour, and in creating the silhouette, Carter was Zoot suit inspired. Etched on the cape of her outfit laid the words ‘Harlem rose’ a reference to one of Taylor’s songs. She was undeniably dandy.
Rihanna, alongside her third pregnancy announcement, unveiled a custom pinstripe concoction by Marc Jacobs. This look oozed Harlem renaissance, a time of renewed black creativity, in fitting with this year’s theme and dress code. Jacobs fashioned the singer-turned-business-mogul in a grey bustier, a sharp cropped blazer and skirt adorned with an unmissable bustle. To me this look was one of the best of the night, radiating a strength that could be felt by onlookers.
Pharrell Williams is a modern-day dandy, an emblem for black style. His addition as a co-chair for this year’s Met Gala was no surprise, a fashion trailblazer since his musical inception in the early 90s all the way down to his current position as the men’s creative director for Louis Vuitton. Williams wore custom Louis Vuitton (duhh), walking the steps in a bejewelled blazer allegedly holding 100,000 pearls. Though I wouldn’t say Willams was off theme, I felt his look left more to be desired. Considering both Williams’ fashion status and his position as co-chair, I had hoped for something with more flare, telling more of a story and really selling the idea of revolutionised black identity.
Like Williams, ASAP Rocky was also a co-chair, also serving as a great example of a modern black dandy. The rapper continuously pushes the boundaries of fashion, not just in terms of race but in gender, unafraid to step out in traditionally feminine accessories like bejewelled hair clips and pleated skirts. Rocky was most definitely on theme, his outfit formed by his own label AWGE, him and his stylist Matthew Henson paying homage to his Harlem heritage. Rocky opted for a marmot inspired jacket, a Harlem staple according to him and with his head of spiralled cornrows, there’s no doubt that he looked good. This Harlem subversion to traditional tailoring was well within the theme and dress code, a lot of thought going into the look, but like Willams I think Rocky could’ve gone more garish.
Colman Domingo, another chair of this year’s gala, truly did his research in dressing for the event. Domingo and stylist wayman Bannerman, precured an embellished, royal blue cape, referencing both a freed slave’s desire to emulate royalty and beloved late fashion icon Andre Leon Talley, the shade of blue reminiscent of an outfit that Talley wore at the 2011 Met Gala. This custom Valentino look was a perfect iteration of the theme and dress code and if that wasn’t enough, Domingo showcased a second zoot-suit-esque outfit, a silhouette famously associated with African Americans. This was the perfect way to honor the dress code as well as his position as co-chair.
Lewis Hamilton, the final member of this year’s co-chairs in attendance, wore a gorgeously tailored, cream suit by black British designer Grace Wales Bonner featuring coat tails and a cropped blazer. Hamilton’s ensemble was then made complete with a beret by Stephen Jones and jewel details, his cuff links shaped like whirligig, the African daisy, which his stylist Eric Mcneal said was a ‘metaphor for growth…and African heritage.’ Mcneal also said the outfit drew inspiration from the Harlem renaissance and jazz singer Cab Calloway. The decision to keep the outfit color-free drew from the artwork of African American painter Barkley L Hendrick’s, a pioneer of black portraiture. The monochromatic look was powerful and instilled with black pride, referencing a multitude of notable black figures and symbols as well as a young black designer – a perfect execution of the theme and dress code.
Doechii and stylist Sam woolf, killed her met gala debut serving full fro and a monogram heavy Louis Vuitton suit with shorts, a burgundy pussy bow and matching Mary Janes. Prior to her on-carpet look, like Domingo, the singer referenced the late Andre Leon Talley, posing with Louis Vuitton bags bearing the synonymous brown monogram print on her Instagram, imitating a photo of Talley. To me Doechii’s look also resembled that of the work of Dapper Dan. Another modern dandy, the designer is known for repurposing the monograms of European fashion houses, forging his own creations, and placing them on black Americans and eventually becoming an inspiration to the fashion houses he appropriated. Doechii’s look proved to be another great execution of the ‘tailored for you’ dress code. Her afro paired with a grill bearing smile and a cigar in hand, acted as a final signifier of black excellence.
Aesthetically, this year’s theme and dress code were well adhered to, well-tailored garments rife across the blue carpet. However, in terms of conveying the deeper intricacies of this year’s prompt, black attendees did a lot of the heavy lifting. Many attendees of colour worked hard to make sure their looks had strong cultural references, reflective of both their personal history and the pioneers who came before them. Though many white attendees dazzled visually, like Hunter Schafer in Prada and Jennie in Chanel, this year’s theme was more than just looking the part, it was about how power and meaning can be constructed through clothing, especially in the face of adversity – a common practice amongst black people.
Here’s to hoping that both those who attended the event and watched from home grasped this; fashion going beyond the visuals, an invaluable facet for self-expression.
Words — Rose Ssemakula
